Monday, August 19, 2013

Swiss Alps and childhood dreams

I first learned and fell in love with the Alps from watching a Japanese cartoon, like so many other important things taught to me by anime and manga. It's called Heidi, Girl of the Alps, by Miyazaki HayaoBack then I had no idea about the awesomeness of his studio. So I was purely and completely in love with the beautiful story and pictures. I started to form the idea of a perfect life around a big dog, a caring grandpa, endless blue sky with cotton like clouds, and the most luxurious green grass. Time is recorded by the sun, the snow, the animals, and the plants. Dairy and pastry is prepared slow and fresh. This anime series has done hell of a job to present the beauty of the Alps.
(More on Wikipedia. I'm not the only one loving this anime! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heidi,_Girl_of_the_Alps )

Years later when my teacher asked each of us to talk about favorite countries, I chose Switzerland. Probably I didn't mention a Japanese cartoon as the reason. But my reasoning was apparently appealing enough that one of my classmates moved to Switzerland for school and work because of what I said! When we reconnected not long ago. He told me about that class, which I didn't remember at all. Look how you could influence someone without even knowing it ( trying to keep a straight face here).

All these have made Switzerland special in my heart. I didn't join ski trips to the Alps, because I didn't want my first visit to be sitting by the fire and drinking beer ( however good it actually sounds).

This time it is right and proper. The sun is shining, sky bluest, grass greenest. I am in the most relaxing mode, no Blackberry, no laptop. 

Geneva
Had a brief stop in Geneva. Jet d'Eau, the gigantic water fountain, is worth a visit. If more time in Geneva, it might be interesting to visit the UN building. I'm in Switzerland for nature, not for politics. 

Golden Pass Line from Montreux to Interlaken
The Golden Pass Line may be the most famous tourist attraction. It's a super scenic train routes along the lakes and cross the mountains. Swiss train company CFF smartly design the panoramic train to allow as much view as possible. Same price and same route as normal train. I didn't buy Swiss Pass (CHF287 for 4 days) but got a Half Fare Card (CHF120 for a month) instead. If my total train fare is between CHF 120 and 180, then it will be a wise decision.

From Geneva, we need to go to Montreux along side Lake Geneva to start the Golden Pass Line. Montreux is a wonderful stop to admire Lake Geneva. I just walked by the lake, and sat there eating ice cream.

From Montreux to Interlaken, sit at the left for better view. I didn't reserve seat, and the train wasn't too crowded.

As the train moved higher into the mountains, every picture was prettier than the previous ones. Until, like a dream came true, I saw the exact pictures from the cartoon! It almost felt unreal.

Three hours passed so fast. If I were to do it again, I would use the CFF luggage service to send my luggage to destination. Then I can get off at any small station and spend an hour lying on the grass, imagining how Heidi sees, smells, and feels in the cartoon.

Interlaken and the Jungfrau Region
Many tourist who visit Jungfraujoch or ski stay at Interlaken. It is therefore the typical touristy little town where there are always more tourists than locals. Upside: everything is so convenient for tourists.

I checked the weather on Jungfraujoch, which wasn't promising. Always check the weather before paying +CHF100 going up there, only looking at clouds or fog. And I was not excited at all about joining the crowd to see one snow covered mountain. Jungfraujoch has the highest train station in Europe. Big deal? Understand that Jungfraujoch is the top tourist attraction. I'm not the "check off the list" kind of tourist though.

My hostel has map of all the hiking trails in Jungfrau Region. And I knew then and there that if I didn't hike in the Alps, I would always wonder how great the hike could be. So I did what I always do- following my heart and hiking.

To hike the most beautiful part, I took the train from Interlaken to Grindelwald, then cable car to First where many great hiking trail start. 

First to Lake Balchalpsee
This is a one hour easy hike. It leads to the lake shown on many Swiss advertisements. There were strollers, kids, grandma with mountain sticks, and several happy dogs, but definitely much less girls with full on makeup compared to the Interlaken train station.

Nature is the best gardener and sculptor. The whole trail is blessed with beauty and life. Go in the morning when the shadow of the mountain falls to the other side.

Balchalpsee to Faulhorn
Admit that I enjoy setting goals and conquering them. I continue the hike to Faulhorn at an altitude of 2681 meters. It takes about 1.5 hour one way. The slop is steeper and temperature lower. I put on all the layers on top, but had only shorts all the way...

At Faulhorn is a restaurant. And there is a drawing of the surrounding mountains and their names. I spent 15 minutes trying to figure out the mountains but failed. The view was absolutely great. Overall the best hike I've ever had, all countries included!

I met people who have stayed for weeks, parachuting, skydiving, hiking, mountain biking, and so many other things to do. However, I wanted to leave Interlaken because there are way too many Korean tourists. Some popular Korean TV was shot in Switzerland which serves as the perfect tourism advertsing. Not that I have anything against Koreans. But if I want to be among them all the time, I would just visit Seoul.

Enough of beautiful mountain scenery
I took the other section the Golden Pass Line from Interlaken to Lucerne. The scenery was still incredibly beautiful, but I was not as excited. After church, castle, museum, tomb and garden, scenic mountain has become another category that I've kind of seen enough of the best.

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